FT1505 - EXPLORE RESEARCH B




BOUDICCA  PRESENTATION:
The name Boudicca came from a Queen Boudicca/Boadicea of Iceni tribe. Iceni tribe is a British Tribe in Norfolk between before 1st BC and the 1st century AD. Queen Boudicca is said to have led the uprising forces of the Roman Empire. From Boudicca preentation, my own interpretation of Queen Boudicca was: a masculine intertwined with feminity figure; a warrior like. The statue of Queen Boudicca can be seen by Westminster Pier, picture below.
Queen Boudicca statue by Westminster pier, London. Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Boudiccastatue.jpg
Queen Boadicea, in battle. Reference: http://www.white-history.com/hwr14.htm

I found inparticular, Boudicca's ideas of combining science and technology with fashion is fascinating and inspirational. The blue perfume was the highlight that better my understanding of science with fashion.
Overall, I found the presentation of Boudicca very knowledge and interesting. I am very thankful to have listened the whole process of Boudicca journey. Moreover, it had broaden my perspective of the fashion industry.
Pictures of couture garments: Skirt and Coat:
Couture garments reviews:
Red pleated skirt: The construction of the red skirt are very detailed and cleverly crafted, hence it is a couture piece. The texture of the fabric is high quality. From the picture of the skirt, the texture of the fabric has a smooth/ satin like texture. However, upon close inspection, the fabric has a wave/inside of a tree texture that looks and feels luxurious. The pleats of the skirts are gathered on on side and with knife pleat on the other side. The overall look of the skirt are very constructive and defined. I partilarly like the two long strips of of fabric which can be tie into multiple of bows. The fastening of the skirt is centre back zip.

Front view of the skirt. Pleated all the way.  Myself holding two strips( very long length). Can be tie into a bow.

Back view: Centre back gold metal zip

Side view: Very sharp side pleats
Black Coat: Tried on by Ayumi. The texture of the fabric is soft and smooth. It is possibly made from 100% wool as the weight of the coat is very heavy. The coat is beautifully lined, however it has no fastening at all. The length mush be knee length. It is a couture piece of the collection. I particularly like the shoulders of the coats which are very noticeable from its shape.
Black thick and heavy weight coat.


Back view with sharp pointy (yet rounded ) shoulders.

THE 00's SUBCULTURE 'CHAVs'


•The chav subculture is described as a young, underachieving, poorly educated and brand obsessed individuals.
•It attracted the media attention in the UK, due to the chav sub culture associations with Burberry and Prada.
•Chav fashion consists of tracksuits, baseball caps, trainers, ugg boots, bling/cheap/ hooped earrings and  accessories,  hooligan attitudes. 


Chavs are popular with teenagers that’s obnoxious and sullen.
Often uses slang words such as ‘well fit’


Vicky Pollard, a fictional character from Little Britain is stereotypical of Chav subculture. 
Little Britain, comedy also raises issues of rising numbers of teenage pregnancy. UK has the highest rates.
‘Official statistics show that 7,464 girls under the age of 16 – some as young as 13 — fell pregnant in England in 2005, a rise of 283 on 2004.’



 
Burberry cap worn by chavs. Ref: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/education/4570234/Britain-has-produced-unteachable-uber-chavs.html
 CAUSES OF CHAVS TOWARDS HIGH END DESIGNERS:
•Burberry blames chavs  associations of their brands and its disappointing sales in 2004.
•Both Prada and Burberry suffered, especially in the UK market.
•Burberry check trademark are featured on the ‘low price entry’ products such as bags, scarves caps, and accessories are worn by chavs.
•The chavs frightened away the upmarket customers.
•Tommy Hilfiger has removed the logo from some clothes in order to discourage chavs from buying baggies as tribal uniform.
•Fashion houses are threatened by the popularity of their gear among the unfashionable classes.

Reference:

Fashion Marketing by Tim Jackson and David Shaw 2009


THE CASUAL SUBCULTURE OF THE 90's

What is ‘The Casual’?
•Subsection of football culture
•Football hooliganism
•Very popular in the mid 90’s
•Wear expensive designers clothes
•Didn’t wear club colours – easy to get in to pubs.
The Casual subculture of the 90s Ref: http://casualhoolbrands.wordpress.com
The Casual fashion:
The casual look were typically about the smartly dresses thats toned down with casual look. The brands that they wore are:

Pringle , FILA, BENETTON
PEPE,  Burberry, CP company, Fred Perry …. Hackett…
RALPH LAUREN AND HACKETT - POLO SHIRTS WERE A MUST HAVE.
STONE ISLAND REPRESENTED THE FOOTBALL HOOLIGAN RACIST BEHAVIOUR.
Hacket however stopped producing the polo shirt as the casual football hooligans associated the brand with hooliganism. This was to distance the brand from a negative view.  

Brief info on STONE ISLAND:
•Italian Designer brand based in Bolonga.
•Designer named Massimo Osti.
•Set up in 1982.
•Stone Island was named after his boat.
•Specialises in surface treatment of fabrics and dyeing techniques.
•Stone Island logo has compass patch.
•Offers coats, jackets,  trousers, footwear and knitwear.
One of the Stone Island jacket. Ref:


 MUSIC:

•Were eclectic in another word, they were generally selective.
•WHAM!, ABC, THE HUMAN LEAGUE, SPANDAU BALLET
•Part of the Madchester and rave scenes.
•The Ravers were very popular in the UK.
•The Stone Roses were the only band that matters.
•Had a strong crossover with the rave culture. Therefore, they were distanced from the football hooligans and the violence of the casual hooligans faded…


Northern Soul subculture of the 70's

What is the Northern Soul?
Northern Soul is an anti-rock subculture. HIstorically it followed what the original mods was about. In 1972, they are known as the 'true underground cult'. The music mainly consists of Black American soul music, in style of heavy beats with fast tempo. However it is generally about Motown influenced music ( first record owned by African American in 1960) were successfully mainstream.


Northern Soul badge


Northern Soul fashion of the mid 70's Ref:  http://www.soul-source.co.uk/soulforum/topic/116356-northern-soul-70s-fashion/



The 70's- V&A Museum trip Sun 6th March 11

A quick one hour trip to the V&A Museum in the Photography exhibition room, free entry. I came across a
picture of the 70's fashion subculture which I thought was very interesting. I found it very detailed for my personal reference of the 70's fashion. Flared trousers, tartan, hat, matching suit piece.
Al Vandenberg, picture taken at Hammersmith Palace in 1976. Ref: V&A Museum


Subcultures of the late 60s- Black Panthers
Ref: www.artandpopularculture.com/Black_Panther_Party
  1. Originally known as Black Panther Party for Self-Defense
  2. Promoted civil right and self defense.
  3. African American group promoter in the US.
  4. Prevent the police brutality by patrolling black ghetto. 
  5. Fought for black exemtion in the military, arming and releasing the all black from jails.

Designers and influences in the 60's
Digging deep into the 60's I discovered the first generation of art school for trained designers such as Jean Muir, Thea Porter Tuffin and Foale. Anne Klein and Halston were the US trained designers.
Jean Muir:

  • Known as eminent fashion designers 
  • Born July 17, 1928 - May 28, 1995
  • Reinvented matte jersey as sexy and elegant fabric- pushed back boundaries
  • Created LBD
  • The French designers crowned her as 'la nouvelle reine de la robe’.

Jean Muir, Ref: www.list.co.uk/article/13875-jean-muir

Anne Klein , pewter grey pique wool of the 60s. Inverted box pleat at centre front and full pleat at back. Round necklines and fitted. Also fully lined . Ref: www.dorotheasclosetvintage.com/60sDRESSES3.html

Vintage clothing website:
http://www.dorotheasclosetvintage.com/60sDRESSES3.html
The website above I have found are from doing a research about the 60's. I thought the vintage garments are very good way for me to analyse the styles/cut and construction of the fashion in the 60's.


EBAYING RESULT IN RELEVANT FASHION OF BIBA, 1960'S:

My passion for the 1920's and 1930's fashion developed when I studied fashion history back at college and it has never grown out of my system...yet.  Nevertheless, browsing for 1920's fashion items I discovered BIBA 1960'S suit of Jacket and trouser which looks rather wild and eccentric for its print. I like the style and the colour hence the reason I have inserted the image. It is a good representation of the 60's fashion. The price of this suit is quite expensive to my liking.

BIBA  SUIT JACKET, wild and eccentric of the 60's fashion.  Reference: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIBA-VINTAGE-SUIT-JACKET-TROUSERS-30s-PIN-UP-60s-70s-/290538232637?pt=Women_s_Clothing&hash=item43a56d9b3d



 What I found of the 60's:

Rummaging though the documents file, the Kodak little photo album appeared in front of my eyes... It was rather intrigue before I took a chance to open it and found images relevant to the 60's. It belonged to my mum's boyfriend. He said, '' I went to take Kodak Photography course in London, it was in 1968''.
Pictures of proof and the fashion of the 1968: 


Short, above knee length shift dress worn under coat. One in short cropped/bob hair, another in long straight hair.
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)